At the surface of the sand bed the water will contain around 10ppm of oxygen. The depth of the sand and the grain size is critical. On average the sand will be doing 90% to 98% of the work, with the effect of the rock being negligible. ![]() In a typical 250 litre you might have 25kg of live rock, but, the 1”-1.2” depth of 0-1mm sand will have around 30 litres of sand, comparable to 300kg to 450kg of live rock. It is also much easier to keep in good condition than the surface of live rock which can easily be clogged by algae etc. Just 1 litre of 0-1mm sand contains the same surface area as a football pitch, and more than 10kg of rock. The most important part of the filtration is the sand bed. It can also be used in freshwater tanks too. It is widely available only, doesn’t cost much, and you’ll probably only need 1 or 2 to keep your tank safe for a whole year. Polyfilter is an absolute life saver and 9/10 if you do get something nasty make it’s way into your aquarium it will save your tank from disaster. The colour it changes to also shows you what it has absorbed it will turn yellow-green if it has trapped ammonia, turquoise-blue for copper, red for nitrite, etc. We then use Polyfilter, an ingenious material that absorbs and locks away dozens of different toxins, and changes colour to show when it is used up. ![]() carbon to remove organic dyes, nematocysts (stinging cells released by soft corals to wage war on other corals), improve water clarity (vital for ensuring consistent light levels for corals), and external contamination that can enter the water from household products. So how does our system work? Very simply we use filter floss to as a mechanical filtration, phosphate remover to remove phosphate. We don’t use any skimmers or reactors and rely on a low tech system of mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration, with the biology in the tank doing most of the work for you. Our system is also designed so that if one part of it stops working, something else should pick up most of the job for you. By relying on a filtration system that is mostly biological backed up by removable media, it is very simple with little to go wrong. ![]() The reason for this is that sooner or later any piece of equipment may suddenly start working less effectively or stop working altogether. we rely on using as little equipment as possible. The key to setting up a reef aquarium using our system is that it is very robust. We recommend using filter wool, carbon, phosphate remover, polyfilter, and having a well maintained sand bed of 1” to 1.2” (25mm to 30mm) depth of very fine sugar sized sand (0-1mm). Chemical filtration uses replaceable media to capture and remove various toxins such as phosphate, organic dyes, nematocysts, and external contaminants. Biological filtration breaks down organic components such as ammonia and nitrite, into the less toxic nitrate and phosphate, and finally processes nitrate into nitrogen gas which then vents off from the aquarium. Mechanical filtration removes particles from the water. PART 4 - Filtration for the aquarium BASIC ADVICEįiltration boils down to 3 basic types.
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